I'm going to walk you through the bleaching process I do every 2 to 3 months. As my hair grows the process changes a little. The longer it becomes the harder it is to prevent overlapping so protection with ponytails and foil to keep it in place is a must. I use towels that are very thirsty and a light color as a darker towel can leave dark lint in my hair.This article is for your understanding of how bleach and toners work together. If I just used bleach my hair would show more very light red tones. This brassy tone is not attractive to me and the purple shampoos don't remove as much of it as I would like.
I use the blonde toners with a low cream peroxide because it deposits the type of blonde you are looking for whether cooler or warmer tones while turning purple and removing the red tones.
I have had the color turn out to cool and almost grey. All I did was add a 20 volume to bleach into a loose mixture for 3 minutes to remove the toner quickly leaving me with blonde to platinum hair that I love or could live with; after-all the red tones had already been removed
3 Month Color Retouch On Locs
After lightly dampening locs and applying conditioner and oil before the bleaching process.
Products:
PREP
- rice water
- olive oil
- small black rubber bands
- conditioner (not instant)
PROCESS
- application brush/bottle
- plastic gloves
- plastic cap/foil
- blue bleach
- 40 volume cream peroxide
- toner
- 20 volume cream peroxide
STYLING
- Wax
- clips
- dryer
WARNING: Do not shampoo hair, scratch or pull hair before using chemicals.
Step 1. Before the touchup process I am sure not to have any tight or pulling hairstyles for a few days before the touchup process. I apply rice water, conditioner or olive oil to my previously processed locs and let it dry completely before beginning my touch up. Immediately before the application I line my hairline with olive oil although this is not necessary
I mix my powder and peroxide in a bowl adding 5 drops of olive oil. I make the solution a little thicker than a cake mix.
Step 2. I prepare my locs by placing my hair into 8 to 10 ponytail with bands every 20 inches to keep each section from falling onto the bleach. (Now that my hair is longer I cover each ponytail with foil for added protection.) This allows me to easily apply with less chance of over-processed previously processed hair.
I always start in the front working my way to the back as I want my front to end up lighter than my back. You can start in the back as I know this is easier.
Step 3. I apply using an application brush or bottle. If I use the bottle I make my bleach solution a little looser by adding more 40 volume peroxide. I use my fingers to press the product into my hair to assure total coverage. I use a mirror to assure complete coverage. I then cover my hair with a large plastic cap. (Use a plastic grocery bag in a pinch.)
Step 4. I allow my hair to process for 15 minutes then check every 5 minutes until I am satisfied. Now that My hair is a very light color I am lightening up my new-growth a little less, which means less time.
Step 5. Time to rinse well!! Remove all foil but NOT the rubber bands. Remember, rinse very well. Wrap hair with towel and allow the towel to do the work. No rubbing and pulling.
Step 6. I mix the toner with 1 part toner to 2 part 20 volume peroxide. Always follow the manufacturers instructions. My toner turns purple because I use type that removes the red brassiness giving me a more golden look. 10 to 15 minutes is all I need. This time varies for me depending on how much red I have left. This is why I prefer blue bleach.
After the bleaching and toner is finished I rinse very well and pour some prepared rice water over my hair, squeeze most out and apply my conditioner. I know the cream conditioners make it hard for some hair to loc but what I do is give it an Braggs apple cider rinse to remove all traces of the conditioner. If your hair is very hard to loc don't use any cream conditioner, you can use a leave in liquid conditioner instead. In short. Use what works for you and your hair.
I use Jamaican Mango and Lime locs styling wax because is seals in moisture, keep my locs soft and firm and shampoos out easily. I used to use the cream but this gives me everything I want.
My biggest tip to you is to twist your locs all in the same direction. This will make it easier as you retwist your own hair to keep it neat. I hope this article has made it more understandable how each component is used during the locing maintenance process.
